Forbidden Pleasures--The Magic of Offal


The Food of the Gods or Forbidden Pleasures?
It is amusing how we attach biblical status to something as primitive as organ meat or offal.  Heavenly or Devilish—which is it?
It is something that is, in the supermarket at least, the dregs, with the lowest prices and the least desired part of an animal. A huge percentage of organ meat now ends up in preformed burgers, hot dogs and other products.  Ever wonder what is meant in the advertising campaign “100% Beef” ? Sirloin? Filet? I doubt it. Try hearts and hooves. Yes that is the way most Americans get their lesser cuts!
For centuries, Sweetbreads, Pates, Marrow Custard and Anticuchos were and still are considered specialties in many parts of the world, reserved for the refined, wealthy and sophisticated eaters. James Beard and Julie Child, icons in he American culinary revolution revered a good chicken liver appetizer or kidneys in sweet and sour sauce.   But to mention these items many today in America, and you receive a groan or my least favorite response --- eeeuuwwwe, gross!
In a case of mistaken identity, offal, variety meats and many “good fats” have been much maligned in the modern food media, until recently that is.
Chefs enjoy working with them for three main reasons. First of all, they are complex and delicious, The layers of complexity in organ meats---nuances of mineral and floral aromas, layers of subtle sweetness and bitterness, the supple texture---these are the same descriptions we use for fine wine.  This is the good stuff, not the house pour, and chefs like that!
The second reason is that chefs need variety to show off their creativity. After your 100th filet mignon special, chefs need to explore new things to keep their edge and offal is a great opportunity for that.
The last reason that offal is making a comeback is because of the Global influence on modern chefs. Organ meat is still revered in all, I mean ALL parts of the world except America, where we think that a boneless skinless chicken breast has flavor!  From Asia to Argentina, livers, kidneys, tongue, heart, and more are relished by the rich and poor alike. In my travels to Europe and Central America, the most memorable meals I had included some form of “forbidden pleasure”. It is what the locals encouraged you to enjoy, as a way of making a connection and creating a bond with our cultures!
On a serious note about health; organ meats from naturally pastured animals are, contrary to contemporary myth, quite healthy for you in moderation. They contain many elusive nutrients, minerals, “good” fat, cystine, elastin, collagen and other alkaloids and enzymes that are essential to the development of our own organs, joints, brain and blood. According to bone and fat enthusiast Jennifer McLagan, [author of Beard Award-winning cookbook Fat  “marrow is full of minerals and good fat. Queen Victoria ate marrow every day and, while she may have had a full figure, she lived to be 81." That was when life expectancy was much shorter than today! Studies back her claim up, showing that marrow is a good source of protein and is high in monounsaturated fats, which decrease bad cholesterol levels.
Finally, using the entire animal is the essence of the sustainability movement.  If all we desire is round cutlets that fit perfectly on a bun, the processing industry will continue to develop “Franken-meat” to fulfill our desires. We are what we eat and we get what we ask for!
In trying to be sensible and sustainable in our meat choices, we must honor and use the entire animal in a holistic way. New World is way on board on this fact! Use it all----make stock, and in the words of the immortal Julia Child
“Save the liver!!!”



1 comment:

Unknown said...

Thanks for this article. As a child, my mother (from Spain) always saved me the marrow, she'd hand me a little spoon for me to scoop it out of the bone. YUM! She said it was very nutritious for me... :). One of the best calves liver entrees I ever had was a t a restaurant in NYC called Francois (56th and 6th). Their sauteed calves liver came with sauteed avocado wedges on top. It was very delicious; the avocado fat complemented the liver very nicely. Now that we're heading into winter it's time to explore the hearty foods again.